17.6.11

One person

Yep, one person in the entire freakin' world reads my blog. He or she asked me to update my blog, somewhere in a comment that followed on from me bleating about my sore finger. I fixed all that shit. My hand surgeon (that's as if I own the dude. He's not mine, I just go to him when I hurt, which is most of the time) rammed a needle into my finger and squirted it full of cortisone. I was so hardcore I didn't even flinch while he did it. A week later, my finger deflated and the pain started abating. Getting less, in other words. I ripped off the splint and got back on my project.

It was the bomb. I headed out on my own, set up my rope and did all the moves. I had to change things a bit on the crux because my finger still isn't great, but I could work around the issue.

Then I went shopping.



Warming up. Vents allow cooling below the knee caps.

Pink leggings with zips. I took my daughter along when I bought them so I could pretend they were for her.

At some point between then and now I reached a high point. So now I am two moves from the big holds. I have to hold the mono ring lock that I fall out of, slap to a crimp and then pop to a big hold. From there it's yarding some big pulls to the summit. Unfortunately winter has intervened. So the road has washed away, the crux crack has been seeping.

Whatever.

Quit Bitching.

Now here is the problem:


In the same spot as above, wearing slightly more subdued kit. That's not the problem. The problem is that the hard climbing is only just beginning. On my left is the rampant, soaring line of The Dream I Knew, which I might add, is 32. I say so because it's my route. Anyway, by this point on the latter it's all big jugs and jams. Butch but fun. A description that applies to some people that I could mention. On my current project it's not juggy as such. Fiddly locks. Dodgy Gastons. This sounds like it's the story breaking and entering in the backstreets of  Marseilles.

The hard bit is actually just below the 3rd unclipped bolt, and ends at the big hold above it.

4 comments:

  1. so its official then... you have gone viral. You now have two people who read your blah...og. Keep going with the route. Not until it becomes improbable but until things get so bad that the walk-in is impossible
    R

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  2. Three people. The route must be beaten into submission by now. Maybe it's the lycra..

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  3. HAHA, and the one person is probably your daughter & she's got to read the blog otherwise you wont give her lifts... so the evil cycle continues.

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  4. Wow, two new posts in a month! Not bad going Mr Pink! Haha, your tights are classic Steve! I must admit, I felt bad to not be included in the very touching message you sent out to friends, but then I remembered that I'm a guy. And a boulderer who has been hiding in Rocklands for the past month so no hard feelings. I am glad that I managed to get you blogging again though! Go crush that project already!

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